Final week, on a dismal typical parisian day, CHANEL unveiled its twentieth Métiers d’Artwork Assortment at le 19M, the brand new constructing which celebrates the virtuoso fingers of vogue.
The annual present is historically introduced in December and the gathering arrives in the boutique in Might. “Final yr’s assortment streamed on-line, held at Chateau de Chenonceau, was one of the crucial profitable ” mentioned Bruno Pavlovski, President of CHANEL’s Vogue Actions in a masterclass which 200 college students attended the day after the present. “We by no means stopped speaking to our prospects throughout the final two years which have been notably tough, we tried to get them concerned in our mission and our new assortment and it has labored” he added.
Designed by architect Rudy Ricciotti -who signed the gorgeous Mucem in Marseille- Le 19M makes reference to Coco Chanel’s birthdate, 19 august 1883, and to the nineteenth arrondissement the place triangular 25,500 sq. meter modern constructing is situated. M is for Métiers d’arts or for the “petites mains”. “This constructing is a tribute to Chanel’s craftsmanship, it’s designed for the glory of the individuals who work for Chanel” mentioned the architect throughout an interview final summer time. Le 19M, house to 600 artisans, embroiderers, feather employees, paruriers, goldsmiths, pleaters, shoemakers, hatters, milliners, glove makers, tanners, leatherworkers has been imagined as a 24 meter excessive constructing sewn with braided threads of concrete. The female creative signature of Rudy Ricciotti completely merges into Chanel’s aesthetics. A real symbiosis. The walkways echo the city forest that has been planted straight on the soil. In the course of the courtyard, a a veiled message: a large camellia. The brand new constructing brings the Porte d’Aubervilliers, in the northeast of Paris, the new lovely panorama and dynamic office that had been lacking to dynamize this space of Paris.
Editors, prospects and VIPs had been invited to find the workshop earlier than the exhibits. Visitors had been cut up into completely different teams led by celebrities or ambassadors of the home like Pharrell Williams or Sofia Coppola and fashions sporting appears to be like from the gathering. Whereas strolling in Atelier Montex, actress Ana Maria Vartolomei and mannequin Lola Nicon launched passionate younger embroiderers who had been stitching silver floral pangles on black velvet panels that will adorn the enduring bag. “This constructing embodies the way forward for the métiers d’arts” mentioned Bruno Pavlovksi.
Right here, the previous era transmits their love and “savoir faire” to the brand new one to protect the historic French tradition. Within the workshops, younger folks of their 20s and 30s work not solely with conventional methods but in addition in 3D printing and designs.
Embroiderers Atelier Montex or Lesage, goldsmith Goosens, shoemaker Massaro or milliner Maison Michel and the flou specialist Paloma are among the many 11 métiers d’arts – on a complete of 40- which were introduced to le 19M this yr. These distinctive craftsmen are in direct contact with Chanel creation studio. However not solely: le 19M can be the inventive hub for the opposite vogue homes.
It’s Gabrielle Chanel who initiated the fruitful dialog between Chanel and the Métiers d’Arts as she was already working with Massaro, Lemaire and Goosens. Then, within the early Eighties, Chanel began to accumulate these métiers -bought by way of The Paraffection subsidiary- to make sure their sturdiness, permit inventive analysis, assist their growth and practice new artisans. The Chanel métiers d’artwork present is the heritage of Karl Lagerfeld who determined in 2002 to current his first present to perpetuate and honor the unusual craft experience of those artisans.
For the 2oth Métiers d’artwork assortment, Inventive Director Virginie Viard brings collectively the road and luxurious types. Within the present be aware, she describes the gathering as “very metropolitan but subtle, with tweed jackets with sweatshirt sleeves, graffiti-style embroidery in coloured beads by Lesage, voluminous purple or royal blue knit bermuda short-outfits, and informal coats worn open”.
On the appears to be like, particulars evoke the architectural facade of le 19M, like these on the lengthy black coat accented by vibrant jeweled buttons and sequined patch pockets that opened the present.
A waistcoat beneath a knitted cardigan whose colours recall the autumn gentle reflecting within the constructing. Virginie Viard performed with sizes and proportions. A multicolored checked ensemble is worn beneath a cape coat in fringed tweed.
There are after all double C logos like on a burgundy cashmere cardigan embroidered with a silver tinsel. Golden jewellery is worn in accumulation or two-tone cabochon stands alone. There are appears to be like for everybody from younger prospects to extra conventional ones.
Make up artists painted fashions’ eyes in exaggerated rock n’roll black liner balancing the peach tone of the lips and cheeks. Evoking the dramatic spirit of the present. A mirror of the coolness of the gathering.
Forward of the present, the invitation field included a set of texts by writers and rappers recounting their imaginative and prescient of the maison d’arts. Dimitri Chambas choreographed the movie introduced earlier than the present. For this preview -as the official opening will likely be subsequent year- Chanel, creator of goals, supplied a true celebration of its distinctive savoir faire.